True dim sum is a bit theatrical, with itinerant service and dishes kept hot and fresh before the big reveal of the steam-basket cover. So it is gleefully appropriate that Empire Garden Restaurant is housed in a former vaudeville auditorium and movie house. Today, the grand restaurant on the mezzanine level is ornately decorated with Rococo-style murals, complete with a gilded proscenium arch. All the dim sum pleasures are available, but you’ll have to track down a cart. Keep an eye out for stars such as the paper-thin, perfectly pleated har gow (shrimp dumplings); open-topped pork siu mai; beef noodle rolls; custardy egg tarts; and pretty packages of lotus leaf-wrapped sticky rice filled with Chinese sausage.