Take the Orange Line all the way to its southernmost station, then go on a ride. The Ride, that is, Brassica Kitchen + Cafe’s freewheeling tasting menu. Available each night at the Forest Hills spot, it’s a priced-per-person journey through a dinner menu that’s equal parts French technique, fermented flavor, and stoner’s creativity. A la carte is also an option, but The Ride is the most direct route to the heart of a top Boston restaurant that defies the expected path.

That’s not to say Brassica Kitchen hasn’t had a linear evolution. The Jamaica Plain favorite opened in 2016, more than five years into the life of Whisk, a pop-up dinner series founded by co-chefs Jeremy Kean and Philip Kruta. After securing the end-of-the-line location that formerly housed Fazenda Coffee Roasters (now based in Dedham), the team—which also includes Kean’s sister, Rebecca, as an operating partner—never closed the cafe down. Instead they debuted their own concept with coffee, sandwiches, and doughnuts, showcasing the techniques Kruta had honed as pastry chef at the famed L’Espalier and JP’s Fiore’s Bakery. 

Brassica remains a weekend brunch go-to, but by nightfall it delves into no-holds-barred New American, helmed by the energetic chef Kean. His experience includes No. 9 Park, Rialto, and Aquitaine. 

The Ride diverges nightly, cherry-picking dishes from the a la carte offerings and occasionally veering off-menu. Expectations do you no good, but for an idea about potential stops along the way: A palate-cleaning Hamachi Crudo may be adorned with aromatic olive oil and green strawberries, pickled in the sweet-and-salty umeboshi style. A duck leg may arrive precisely confited but coated in mossy-textured yuk sung, alongside a bracing orange gastrique to cut the savory duck floss. And then there’s the B.K. Fried Chicken, a worthy vehicle for fermented hot sauces or drizzled in maple atop a waffle at brunch.

To pair with your eclectic meal, Brassica’s beverage options, overseen by Noah Todoroff, are equally as electrifying, from natural wine to house-made vermouths, and other unique tinctures and libations that bring excitement without booze (perhaps a nod to chef Kean’s journey with sobriety). We see you, spirulina.

There are plenty of ways to experience Brassica Kitchen. All make it worthy of the visit, unified by bold flavors and thoughtful service from passionate people.