The Lumache pasta served at inventive Cambridge trattoria Pammy’s is a Bolognese dish that breaks the rules—and receives a pass from us. It starts with a snail-shaped pasta made on-site from hearty semolina flour and cooked to a toothsome, al dente texture. The Bolognese sauce that accompanies it gets a surprising jolt from gochujang paste, a spicy Korean ingredient that cuts the richness while adding an entirely new spectrum of flavor.