July's Can't-Miss Dish

By Ellen Bhang · 07/01/2020

Looking for a no-fail, mouthwatering, gonna-tell-your-friends-about-it plate? Each month, Boston Globe columnist Ellen Bhang highlights the dish you need to try right now—and something to sip alongside it.
On the plate: Ice Cream Taco

Where to find it: If you rubbed elbows with Kristen Rummel and Rory Hanlon back in the fall of 2016, you would have heard the wife-and-husband team talking about their new ice cream spot on Mass Ave., situated between Porter Square and Harvard Square. Then, as now, Honeycomb Creamery’s small-batch scoops are made from the milk of Jersey cows at Mapleline Farm in Hadley, Massachusetts, or from vegan sources like coconuts and cashews. “I love ice cream,” Rummel declares. “I eat it every single day.” Fortunately, her customers can do likewise (or very close to it) now that the spot operates every day but Monday.

You order and pay online, then queue up—socially distanced, of course—outside the shop. Once you’re in the designated “call zone” at the front of the line, ring the store. General manager Ashlee Daoust and staff members will prep your selection and place it on a table for pick-up. “People want to do the right thing,” says Rummel, marveling at how customers have learned to flex with pandemic-necessitated protocols. “We have so many signs,” she continues, referring to placards that help folks navigate the process. “Ashlee is printing new ones every day.”

Notes on the nosh: Plan your week so you can pick up an Ice Cream Taco, a hand-held treat that comes in a rotating array of flavors like Tiramisu and Caramel Turtle. (As of June 30th, these labor-intensive creations are only available on Tuesdays.) A perennial favorite is the S’mores Taco, a chocolate waffle cone folded into the shape of a hard-shell tortilla, stuffed with malted vanilla ice cream, dipped in chocolate, and rolled in graham cracker crumbs. Marshmallow fluff, piped artfully on top, is singed with a kitchen torch so it’s delectably toasty, just like the classic campfire snack.

Sip alongside: Rummel looks to Chris Gatti and Melissa Bartz of Little Wolf Coffee in Ipswich to supply Companion Blend, a seasonal mixture of beans (currently sourced from Colombia and Ethiopia) to make Cold Brew Coffee. Those beans are ground and then steeped for several hours in cool water. This gentle method results in a brew that’s smoother and more nuanced than standard iced coffee; this particular blend offers irresistible notes of berries and chocolate.

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