April's Can't-Miss Dish

By Ellen Bhang · 04/01/2021

Looking for a no-fail, mouthwatering, gonna-tell-your-friends-about-it plate? Each month, Boston Globe columnist Ellen Bhang highlights the dish you need to try right now—and something to sip alongside it.

On the plate: Eggspañola Sandwich

Where to find it: If you still subscribe to the notion that you can’t get a top-notch bagel outside of New York, let Food & Wine convince you otherwise. The magazine recently named the beloved bready rounds of Bagelsaurus, in Cambridge, among America’s best bagels. But we have to ask: What took them so long?

Since 2013, Mary Ting Hyatt has been turning out sublimely flavorful versions of the boiled-and-baked rings. Sporting glossy, crackly exteriors, her chewy, hand-formed bagels—made from slow-fermented dough—are the stuff of legend. Hyatt sold them at Brookline sandwich shop Cutty’s as a pop-up special before moving into her own Mass. Ave. storefront near Porter Square. While the shop’s down-the-block queue has moved online for now, loyal customers still wake up early to place pickup orders. They know their favorite flavors—like Cinnamon Raisin, Black Olive, and the classic Everything—can and do sell out.

Fans also know their bagel of choice can be transformed into a stellar sandwich.

Notes on the nosh: The crème de la crème of these sandwiches is the Eggspañola. Opt for a Sea Salt bagel, dotted with feathery flakes of Maldon salt. The bagel’s top half, spread with Spanish paprika-seasoned aioli, also sports a dollop of parsley gremolata, an herbaceous condiment punctuated by tangy lemon zest. Before tucking in, take a moment to admire the layers inside each half: There’s a generous slice of cow’s milk feta, firmer and silkier than the briny-crumbly variety, hailing from Vermont’s Maplebrook Farm. Below the cheese lies the sandwich’s namesake ingredient, sourced from Pete and Gerry’s Organic Eggs in New Hampshire. It’s cooked so that the yolk—a brilliant marigold hue—oozes delightfully. We suggest adding lightly mashed avocado to your Eggspañola; the fruit’s richness and sprightly green color round out the delectability of this brilliant sandwich.

Sip alongside: We’re putting our stake in the ground and declaring that it’s time for a cool—not hot—beverage. Order the Cold Brew, made from a dark-roast coffee blend called Phocea, a mix of equitably sourced beans from Brazil, Rwanda, and Democratic Republic of Congo, brought to you by La Colombe Coffee Roasters. The Bagelsaurus team grinds these special beans in-house then steeps them in cool water overnight. Such gentle extraction results in a smooth, nutty elixir that points to brighter days ahead.

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