July's Can't-Miss Dish
Blue Hawaii Five-O (Tiger Mama)
Q&A: Alex Saenz of BISq
Looking for a no-fail, mouthwatering, gonna-tell-your-friends-about-it plate? Each month, Boston Globe columnist Ellen Bhang highlights the dish you need to try right now—and a delicious wine to sip alongside it.
On the plate: Fried Oyster Bun
Where to find it: Steps from the ballpark, Eventide Fenway is the Boston outpost of Portland’s Eventide Oyster Co., brought to you by Big Tree Hospitality’s Arlin Smith and James Beard Award-winning chefs Mike Wiley and Andrew Taylor. Think of it as the fast-casual progeny of the Maine mothership, serving high-concept seafood in paper trays reminiscent of your favorite clam shack.
Notes on the nosh: Move over, lobster roll! There’s a new bun on the block, and these bivalves are ready to rumble. Winter Points, pulled from a pristine cove near Bath, Maine, are real bruisers, larger and meatier than their destined-for-the-half-shell counterparts. Emerging hot and crisp from their fat bath, these beauties land in bao-inspired bread that takes a sweet, yeasty page from the dim-sum playbook. A gorgeous slice of ripe tomato, paprika tartar sauce, and pickled veggies—red onion, shaved jalapeño, and funky threads of daikon—round out a sandwich with personality to spare.
Sip alongside: Don’t let the illustration of a pig’s butt on this single-serving can fool you—Scarpetta “Frico” Frizzante is a serious Italian sparkling wine from restaurateur and master sommelier Bobby Stuckey. “You’re not getting plonk,” says Eventide Fenway’s general manager John Myers about the palate-cleansing white crafted from trebbiano, glera, and chardonnay. “It’s good wine in really fun packaging, perfect with the oyster bun.”