August's Can't-Miss Dish

Indian street corn - The Table at Season to Taste

Looking for a no-fail, mouthwatering, gonna-tell-your-friends-about-it plate? Each month, Boston Globe columnist Ellen Bhang highlights the dish you need to try right now—and a delicious wine to sip alongside it. 

On the plate: Indian Street Corn

Where to find it: You might do a double-take the first time you step inside The Table at Season to Taste, situated on an unremarkable stretch of Mass. Ave. in North Cambridge. It’s an unlikely location for such an idyllic restaurant, centered around an open kitchen and channeling the sophisticated charm of a country inn. Settle into the corner nook to dine a la carte—or breathe a sigh of relief that you scored a reservation at one of a handful of tables, ready to partake of a tasting menu that evolves with the seasons.

Notes on the nosh: Executive chef Carl Dooley is keen on elevating global flavors, and his corn on the cob is a winning example. “Everyone does cotija cheese, ancho chili, and mayo,” he says, referring to the Mexican version of the snack. “I’m roasting the corn and tossing it with ghee and vindaloo spices,” he explains, describing a house-made blend that includes turmeric, clove, and Kashmiri pepper. Presented in a gleaming metal bowl with wedges of lime, each mini cob yields height-of-summer sweetness, punched up by chili heat and cooled by crumbles of paneer cheese.

Sip alongside: A vividly flavored dish deserves an equally vibrant wine. Wine director Jesse Eslin recommends a 2017 Dashe Cellars Dry Riesling, crafted from grapes grown at high elevations in California’s Mendocino County. Lush and fruity, this pour sings with ripe peach, Meyer lemon, and sea salt, buoyed up by exuberant acidity.

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