If the term “Asian fusion” makes you shudder, stick with us for a minute. Anju is a bright and airy noodle bar, modern in every sense of the word. From big steaming bowls of umami-packed Shoyu Ramen to Duck Yakisoba, where ponzu lifts decadent duck confit topped with cabbage and crunchy cashews, to Khao Soi, the rich and spicy Burmese noodle soup—most of the heavy lifting is done right in front of you, on a couple of induction burners behind the service bar. The team cherry-picks flavors and techniques from across cuisines to great effect, letting local ingredients shine. For proof that Anju knows how to iterate and when to leave a classic alone, try both steamed buns: One is stuffed with falafel, arugula, and turmeric yogurt, while another has a more traditional mix of pork, sweet hoisin, and kimchi mayo. Don’t miss desserts like Matcha Tiramisu. To drink, choose from local beer, Alsatian Pinot Gris, or—get this—sake, made right in Kittery, Maine. Anju refuses to play by the rules, and we all win.