October's Can't-Miss Dish
Apple of My Pie (Taberna de Haro)
Serre de la Madone (Menton)
Looking for a no-fail, mouthwatering, gonna-tell-your-friends-about-it plate? Each month, Boston Globe columnist Ellen Bhang highlights the dish you need to try right now—and something to sip alongside it.
On the plate: Chilaquiles
Where to find it: It’s easy to spot Angela’s Cafe in Eagle Hill, even if you rarely visit that East Boston neighborhood. On weekends, look for regulars gathered on the sidewalk out front, chatting amiably as they wait for tables. The beloved Mexican eatery, and its newer sister restaurant in nearby Orient Heights, is a family affair. Angela Atenco Lopez, who hails from Puebla, Mexico, heads up the kitchen, cooking her own mother’s recipes. Each location is managed by one of her sons: Luis Garcia oversees the cozy original, while Joel Garcia operates the spacious second.
Notes on the nosh: Chilaquiles, available anytime but popular for brunch, is pure comfort fare. House-made corn tortillas are fried crisp, then simmered briefly in a green tomatillo-jalapeño salsa. Those crunchy chips, which become pliable (but never soggy) as they soak up the silky sauce, are layered onto a plate with shredded chicken, queso fresco, sliced avocado, and a drizzle of sour cream. Eggs, done the way you like, and refried beans come standard. Add grilled flank steak for the win.
Sip alongside: Luis Garcia recommends a Michelada. “It’s like a Bloody Mary made with beer instead of vodka,” he explains, detailing how Clamato, hot sauce, and a squeeze of lime season the savory cocktail. The libation arrives ice-cold in a glass rimmed with chili powder and rock salt. “It’s good,” reassures Garcia, “especially after you’ve had fun the night before.”