April's Can't-Miss Dish

Deviled Eggs - The Longfellow Bar

Looking for a no-fail, mouthwatering, gonna-tell-your-friends-about-it plate? Each month, Boston Globe columnist Ellen Bhang highlights the dish you need to try right now—and something to sip alongside it. 

On the plate: That Time I Screwed Up the Deviled Eggs…

Where to find it: If you’re craving a refuge from the brisk breezes of early spring, climb the stairs to the top floor of The Longfellow Bar, chef-owner Michael Scelfo’s newest hot spot in Harvard Square. Located just above his flagship restaurant Alden & Harlow, the bar is easy to find, and even easier to love. Slip into a bar chair—smartly saddle-stitched and butterscotch in hue—and take in the natural light. An arched window is the one architectural reminder that you’re sitting in the former Cafe Algiers, which closed its doors in 2017 after a nearly 50-year run. In the thoroughly renovated space, Scelfo and his savvy team have just the dish for you.

Notes on the nosh: On the plate, deviled eggs sit upright, showered with potato chip crumbs, Aleppo pepper, chives, and dill. The aerated yolk filling—piped in so generously it peaks above the whites—contains an egg-within-egg surprise. Ikura (salmon roe) lends a briny pop to every bite. You wonder why the dish is called “That Time I Screwed Up the Deviled Eggs…”

Last year, Scelfo was prepping a meal for friends. “Somewhere along the line—I’m not perfect—I made the yolk soupy,” he admits. So he crushed up some gourmet potato chips and folded them in. He still marvels at how the addition firmed up the yolks and added delectable crunch. “We were freaking out how good it was,” he remarks.

Sip alongside: With the dish, director of operations Jen Fields is pouring a bubbly called “Le Chenin d’Ailleurs,” crafted by François Chidaine. “He was biodynamic before it became hip,” says Fields, referring to the French winemaker’s natural approach to his vineyards. After a spring frost reduced his crops, he made a nearly 400-mile trek from the Loire Valley to Limoux to source chenin blanc grapes for this 2016 sparkler. The Champagne-method libation, which Fields describes as “honeyed and apple-forward,” is a sign of spring—just like those definitely not screwed-up eggs.

 

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