Take a walk down Hanover Street and you might notice a slim doorway with the words “Galleria Umberto Rosticceria” written above it, alongside a Coca-Cola logo. It’s likely that a steel shutter has already been pulled over the entrance, but if you’ve arrived during its narrow window of afternoon operating hours you’re in for a treat. Inside is a homey space that looks unchanged since 1979, complete with a kitschy wall mural depicting Roman gladiatorial combat. Approach the counter (and make sure you have cash) to score one of the criminally underpriced Sicilian slices, famed for their cheesy, bubbly, caramelized surfaces and lightly charred crust. Save room—or bring a friend—to partake in the monster-sized arancini while you’re at it.