Gene’s might be named for the sweet Chinese BBQ flatbreads that grace its menu, but we’re all about the noodles. You’ll spot them the moment you step into this tiny, unadorned FiDi lunch joint, where a cook in the tiny open kitchen is perpetually stretching dough to arm’s length before slapping strands against a counter with a satisfying thud.

Aesthetically, Gene’s fully embodies the term “no frills.” Bare brick walls are punctuated only by a token zodiac poster and a glowing backlit display of the eatery’s dozen-or-so offerings. Counter service, cash only, plastic bowls and cutlery—yep, it’s that kind of place.

That bare-bones atmosphere couldn’t be at greater odds with the food, which is a riot of flavor, aroma, and texture. Hand-pulled noodles feature in many of the dishes, perhaps most prominently in the #4, in which they’re sprinkled with cilantro, scallions, red chilies, and what can only be described as “garlic overdose.” The exceptional density of each noodle recalls beloved dumpling dough, which in this case has been unfolded into chewy ribbons.

For another take, the #9 Cumin Lamb Hand-Pulled Noodles buries its most notable feature under a layer of shredded carrots and bean sprouts. You’ll have to dig to discover the strands, which soak in some whiffs of Indian cuisine thanks to the cumin and the minced chunks of spiced lamb meat, lending the whole thing an air of near-eastern Bolognese. We’re also swooning over the lamb skewers, which feature pieces of spice-rubbed lamb with more traditional Chinese BBQ flavors.

Disclaimer: Lo mein may never satisfy again.